Rome is variety.
“She” is not just only one.
Rome changes her profile behind the corner.
And you with her.
Rome is curative as only the great eternal beauty is able to be.
Rome is mysterious.
Her essence’s hidden accurately among her soft folds.
Suddenly, Rome always exhibits new and original faces.
In the core of historical centre of Rome, just a few minutes from Chiostro del Bramante, you arrive in one of the most vibrant street of Rome: Via del Governo Vecchio.
Via del Governo Vecchio is a perfect synthesis between history and progressivism.
This narrow street is beautifully noisy and vibrant any time, day and night.
It is a place which provides you with good mood spontaneously.
Tourists, often, chance upon it while they are looking for Piazza Navona.
“Please, do you know where Piazza Navona is?”
It surely is the most frequent question here.
Via del Governo vecchio is food, culture and tiny botiques.
But it is street music and idea sas well.
It is always in ferment.
It is almost impossible to wander around this street without being struck by naive shop windows of fashion boutiques.
There is a romantic French inspired style which contrasts with the wonderfully traditional vintage shops (such as “Vestiti usati Cinzia”, one of the most popular in Rome).
Via del Governo Vecchio is a “democratic” location.
Here you can decide who you want to be.
An American during own lovely “Vacanze Romane” (roman holiday).
A bohemian who, dressing polka-dotted, wander around following the sound of “La vie an rose”.
Everyone has own space here.
Even the radical intellectuals who prefer readings and locations much more of niche.
On Via del Governo Vecchio there is one of most well-equipped and independent bookshops of Rome.
“We speak italian very well (and we know where Piazza Navona is)”
It is litteraly written on its shop window.
It is matter of “Altroquando” bookshop.
It is a comfy and cozy place and of design and odd at the same time.
You can purchase independent books (often debut novels), funny gadget and billboards (above all, there are the Risiko’s map with the neighborhoods of Rome and the unreal and surreal map of the “Rome tube” – even known as “We would be our Dream!”.).
The tourists narrate themselves through their look, their photo cameras and their movements.
You could spend hours just watching the human life which flows in front of you.
Via degli Orsini, which is the extension of Via del Governo Vecchio, can be the natural point where to have a break (especially for lunch).
“You know, I am the only Roman here”
A man, with a marked Roman accent, said it to me on the door of the venue where he was working.
It is “Tramezzo”, a perfect location where to taste a yummy tramezzino in accord with the traditional Venice cuisine.
When days are so bright and do not want to turn into nights, it might happen to end up in a place of artists and talents.
It is where the French patisserie (“Viziati, dolci e non solo”) meets harmoniously the sculture of contemporanean art.
A bliss for eyes and mouth!
And where toys come once again made of wood and colorful fabric.
And where is possible to watch lamp world globe shaped! (“Macoco” toys shop)
And if then you go ahead following the flow, you will be on via del Pellegrino, a magical narrow street full of segrets.
A silent place where yon can chance upon ceramic shops (Tè e teiere, Tea and tea-pots), glittering Middle-eastern glass shop (Sciam di Youssef Hallak) and tiny traverses which are the gateway towards an ancient world.
So, here you are in a secret “garden” framed from red houses which seem to climb the sky.
You are inside a poetry.
It retains its magic due to just a few persons know it.
It is so weird that this tiny corner of marvel (see the post featured image) stands just only few meters from the loud Campo dei Fiori.
A colorful place, full of market stalls and where are survived only two of the original flower stands.
There is the exciting parfume of ”focaccia” (called “pizza bianca” in Rome), coming from “Forno del Campo”…
…which is connected ideally with the outstanding delicatessen specialized in salumi (Norcineria Viola).
Both are two real institutions in Rome.
There is the winter sun which suddenly appear among the ancient palaces and makes you warmer.
There is a deep blue of the sky.
There are clouds that look like whipped cream.
There are irregolar and harmonious roofs.
Here you are and you would like to shoot pictures that “painting” for hours more.
There is the beauty.
The Great Beauty.
[Tavole Romane thanks Antonia for this #mammaroma second chapter. Thrilling words and photos that today naturally connect thoughts to "The Great Beauty" movie. Good luck to Paolo Sorrentino, the actors and all his team for tonight Oscar awards!]
Where to eat and drink in the area
Antica Norcineria Viola (delicatessen shop) piazza Campo de’ Fiori 43
Caffè Novecento (breakfast, tea, coffee) via del Governo Vecchio 12
Ditirambo (restaurant, lunch, dinner) piazza della Cancelleria 74-75
Forno Campo de’ Fiori (bakery, pizza, sandwiches, light lunch) piazza Campo de’ Fiori 22
Il Pagliaccio (high-end restaurant Michelin 2*, lunch, dinner) via dei Banchi Vecchi 129/a
Settimio al Pellegrino (trattoria, lunch, dinner) via del Pellegrino 117
Tramezzo (sandwiches, light lunch) via degli Orsini 26-27
Viziati (coffee and pastry) via dei Banchi Vecchi 122
Supplizio (“friggitoria” for supplì and other deep fried delicacies) via dei Banchi Vecchi 143 – It will be inaugurated in few days, by the famous Roman Chef Arcangelo Dandini.
See also #mammaroma first chapter about the nearby Navona – Coronari area.
#mammaroma is on Pinterest too! Additional pics of the shootings are published on Tavole Romane #mammaroma board.
Latest posts by Antonia intervistedalmondo (see all)
- #mammaroma Giubbonari – Chiavari (number 3) - April 3, 2014
- #mammaroma Governo Vecchio – Campo de’ Fiori (number 2) - March 2, 2014
- #mammaroma Navona – Coronari - February 10, 2014